Austria: Salzburg

[bjorn]

Singing the praises of Salzburg is easy. The hills actually are alive with the sound of music. Salzburg is the birthplace of Amadeus Mozart, and home to the Sound of Music Tour, and the five-week long Salzburg Summer Music Festival. But music isn't the only thing happening in Salzburg. The town oozes charm and keeps the postcard industry in business. Nestled in the Alps and resting on the Salzach River, Salzburg was built by three bishop-princes in the late-16th and early-17th century. The town has a distinct Italian flavor and fairytale skyline of medieval spires, domes, belfries, and turrets. The old town, on the south bank of the river, is a Baroque masterpiece of churches, courtyards, and fountains. Salzburg transports you to another time and place - its atmosphere, the music, the history, the food, and the Alps - is what it's all about.

When to go:
Salzburg is great almost any time of year, depending on what you want to do. You can ski in the Alps year-round, though fall and winter are best. Summer, though packed with tourists, offers the Salzburger Festspliele with all kinds of classical and dramatic open-air performances.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
As you wander the city, follow little streets framed in baroque architecture to see all the history in the churches, the opera houses, and of course, the fortress. On the left bank of the Salzach river in the Old Town is an abundance of historic sights, like the birthplace of Mozart and the Von Trapp experience. The huge, medieval Castle Hohensalzburg overlooks the Salzburg from its perch almost 500 feet about the city. In addition to the torture chambers, it has a tower and a couple of museums.

Museums:
The home of Mozart and the backdrop of The Sound of Music, Salzburg has its share of museums and then some: Mozart's birthplace, Museum of Natural History, Beer Museum - and that's just a start.

Shopping:
Salzburg doesn't have the shopping opportunities of, say, Vienna, but you can find some great local specialties like dirndls, lederhosen, and petit point (stitchery and needlepoint). Two great shopping areas are Getreidegasse and a slightly quirkier Residenzplatz. Shopping on weekends is a challenge, as stores are generally only open Saturday mornings.

Side Trips:
South of Salzburg's old town is the 17th century Hellbrunn Palace, which has nifty trick fountains and water-powered figures.

Food/Culinary Info:
Many restaurants change venue throughout the day, from elegant cafe in the morning or afternoon, to restaurant in the evening, to bar at night. Mozartkugeln (chocolate pastry in honor of Herr Mozart), salzburger nockerln (light mixture of stiff egg whites), and other traditional foods ("schnitzel with noodle" anyone?) are available just about everywhere, as are a pretty good range of international fare.

Adventure:
Salzburg borders on the Hohe Tauern National Park, a relatively untouched section on the edge of the Alps. Take a hike through the grassy knolls, climb the rugged peaks and take in the view, or stroll by one of the lakes and breathe in the unbelievably fresh alpine air.

Natural Wonders:
If the backdrop of the Alps isn't enough for you, you can stop and smell the roses at the baroque Mirabell Palace. Though it currently houses the city government, there are exquisite gardens - designed in 1606 - sitting behind the Palace. Maria von Trapp and the children are rumored to have stopped here for a rest and a song, and the Gardens are still used for classical concerts in the evenings.

Arts:
As the birthplace of Mozart, the Salzburg arts scene offers ample choice of classical music venues, plus some theatre, film, and even gambling. For something a little different, try the Salzburger Marionettentheater, near the Mirabell Gardens, and see handmade marionettes perform. Pick up a free copy of Offizieller Wochenspiegel at the Salzburg tourist office to find out about local cultural events.

Festivals/Events:
For five weeks every summer, beginning in August, the hills really are alive with the sounds of opera, classical music, plays and open air performances of the Salzburger Festspliele, also known as the Salzburg Festival. Don't miss the intimate Salzburg Festungsonzerte (April to December) which entertains with the music of Strauss and Mozart played at the Furstenzimmer (Prince's Chamber) at the Festung. January brings annual Mozart Week.

Nightlife/Bars:
Beer gardens are a staple of Austrian life, so there's no dearth of bars and clubs. Check out the Old Town (for a good college crowd), and along both sides of the river.

Cafe Quotient:
The riverbanks provide a great setting for outdoor cafes. Sit and eat and drink coffee (or beer) and watch the people go by. Don't forget to get a pastry. Try Tomasselli, a hoity-toity cafe, for a touch of snooty elegance.

Gay & Lesbian:
There's pretty strong community here. Monthly publications like Extra, or Rainbow Life can point you to the hot spots.

Cost:
Salzburg is not a particularly inexpensive destination, but if you plan right, you can get by on US$75-100 per day, depending on how luxurious you want to be, and how many activities you want to do each day.

Getting Around:
While Salzburg does have its own international airport less than 4 miles west of the center of town, it's often cheaper to just fly into Munich or Vienna and ride the train for a few hours to one of the two main stations in the city. Once in the city, public transportation is readily accessible by trains and by buses and, of course, by foot.

Safety:
A city is a city is a city - even in the Alps. Be careful and use common sense.

Language:
Almost entirely German. The locals, who are used to travelers from virtually everywhere, speak English, as well as some of the neighboring languages. Bring your phrasebook for back up.

Party/Social Scene:
Salzburg is home of the beer garden, so you can take in the friendly atmosphere while you quaff a stein and chat with a local.

Other Info:
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