China: Hong Kong

[bjorn]

Once a British colonial outpost, now a Chinese cosmopolitan metropolis, Hong Kong moves and changes at lightning speed. The city has always had its hand in business, though. Formerly a major port for the opium, silk, and tea trades, Hong Kong today is still a destination for luxury exports, though nowadays it's electronics, fashion and films. The city is a modern urban jungle, where businessmen and country peasants navigate the streets to the rhythm of Cantonese pop music and rush hour traffic. It's a thrilling place to explore. Money and mobile phones, McDonalds and malls, Hong Kong exhibits the materialism and fast pace that you'd expect from one of the commerce capitals of the world.

Hong Kong's softer side is just outside the city. Early mornings at Victoria Park, tai chi enthusiasts exercise as old ladies chat on benches in the Park's gardens. Numerous hiking trails on Hong Kong Island and the New Territories provide beautiful views and a contrast to the bustle of the city. A sampan ride though Aberdeen Harbor, or a dim sum lunch at a floating restaurant are a couple of Hong Kong's simple pleasures. Whatever view of Hong Kong you prefer, the city will captivate you.

When to go:
November through December, and March through April are ideal months to visit Hong Kong, as the air is warm and breezy, and the sky is clear and sunny. January through February gets chilly, but by May it is uncomfortably sticky and humid. September through October is cyclone season.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
Founded in 1841, Hong Kong is young as far as cities go, and history here is of the recent variety. Attractions include the biggest and oldest Hong Kong has to offer. The Po Lin Monastery (and its Giant Buddha) is a major tourist attraction. The 202-ton statue of Buddha is the world's largest seated, outdoor bronze statue of the deity.

Peak Tram and the Star Ferry are two of Hong Kong's oldest means of transport. The Tram links downtown with verdant Victoria Peak. Over a century-old, the funicular tram, which occasionally ascends at a 45-degree angle, offers spectacular views of Victoria Harbor and the modern city below. The Star Ferry is another venerable Hong Kong institution. Over 160 years old, the ferry chugs between the Central district on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon on the mainland.

Museums:
Most of the museums focus on aspects of traditional Chinese art and culture (Hong Kong Museum of Art, Chinese Historical Relics Museum, Flagstaff House Museum & Chinese University Art Museum), Hong Kong's history (Hong Kong Museum of History, Racing Museum), or science (Science Museum, Space Museum and. Museum of Medical Science).

Shopping:
Hong Kong is a crossroads of commerce; it still deserves its reputation as a place with an infinite variety of things to buy, but its reputation as a bargain basement is not exactly true. These days, it's cheaper to buy most things at home. While it's still possible to find basic goods at inexpensive prices, it's becoming harder to do every year. Hong Kong is an ideal place to find reasonably priced luggage, footwear, and clothing, both in swanky stores, street stalls and outlet malls. If you do hit the streets in search of bargains, watch out for rip-offs and cheap imitations of brand name goods

Food/Culinary Info:
According to the city tourist authority, Hong Kong has the world's highest ratio of restaurants and cafes. Oriental and Western cuisine collide in Cantonese Hong Kong. Westerners are perhaps most familiar with dim sum. Literally "affairs of the heart," dim sum are bite-sized portions of seafood, vegetables, and beef wrapped up in buns, rolls, and dumplings. Other Cantonese favorites include wonton noodles, congee (rice porridge), char siu (roast pork), choi sum (vegetables with small yellow flowers at the end), and braised octopus. More exotic dishes, from bird's nest soup (actually spit from a swallow) to dog meat and duck tongue, are often available in upscale restaurants. International cuisine, from Thai and Vietnamese, to French and Korean are also especially popular. Burger King, Wendy's, Hardee's, KFC (to satisfy the Chinese's famed love of deep fried chicken), TCBY, Haagen-Dazs, Subway, Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Domino's are well represented in Hong Kong.

Natural Wonders:
In the country parks of the rural New Territories and the urban gardens on the slopes of Hong Kong Island, it is possible to escape it all and seek some peaceful contemplation the mist-enshrouded trails encircling Victoria Peak, the tree-lined beaches of Lamma Island, the nature walks in the New Territories, and the country parks of Lantau Island.

Cultural Comments:
Situated in Lam Tsuen, near Tai Po in the New Territories, the Wishing Tree is covered in deep crimson flowers and laden with wishes written on bright red paper. Tradition says that wishmakers may scribble their dreams on specially designed red paper plates, then toss them in the air; if a plate catches on the tree, the wish will be granted.

Arts:
Hong Kong is not known for its art offerings. The Hong Kong Cultural Center is a good place to see some of the best the city offers though. Local films, concerts, exhibitions and plays, are shown and the building is also home to the Hong Kong Museum of Art.

Festivals/Events:
The religious and cultural festivals throughout the year are one of Hong Kong's biggest attractions. Festival dates are often dictated by the Chinese calendar, so check with the Hong Kong tourist authority for details about what's happening around the time of your visit.

Nightlife/Bars:
Today's Hong Kong houses are a dynamic mix of expatriate pubs, techno clubs, gay bars, and most importantly, one of the world's best collections of Chinese and international restaurants. Hong Kong has some of the best nightlife in all of Asia, surpassed only by Tokyo.

Lan Kwai Fong is home to a jumble of bars and clubs frequented by local Chinese and expatriates alike. Soho and Causeway Bay are considered up-and-coming nightlife areas by those in the know. Hostess bars in Wanchai and Tsim Sha Tsui are also very popular, especially with businessmen and sailors.

Cafe Quotient:
Hong Kong residents are always on the go, so free time is rarely spent sipping coffee at a cafe. You can find plenty of cyber cafes though, as well as fancy places to get proper British high tea, or more homey places that serve Chinese tea.

Gay & Lesbian:
While the gay and lesbian scene is not on par with Tokyo or Sydney, it is at least more active than in other Chinese cities. There is a cluster of gay male bars near Lan Kwai Fong.

Cost:
Bargains can be had in Hong Kong for food and souvenirs, but chances are you will be charged the "tourist price" on hotel rooms, cabs and other "official" items. US$50 a day would be the minimum you would need while in Hong Kong.

Getting Around:
Hong Kong is the major gateway to China and much of East Asia. International air service is excellent and fares are relatively cheap. Public transport is cheap, fast, widely used and generally efficient. Hong Kong's subway, labeled the MTR, whisks people around in futuristic comfort to most places of interest. Taxis are everywhere. It sometimes seems like there are more taxis than private cars on the road. Most drivers speak at least some English.

With the exception of the airport express, the bus system is a bit difficult to navigate, and many travelers only take it to experience the thrill of careening around curves at breakneck speed.

The Star Ferry is the most famous mode of water transport in this "fragrant harbor," Hong Kong's English translation.

Safety:
The primary safety concern in Hong Kong, as in many large cities, is pickpockets. Stay on guard when in big crowds.

Language:
Many people in Hong Kong speak English, most speak Cantonese and Mandarin has been regaining popularity since the takeover in 1997.

Party/Social Scene:
While Hong Kong may be too busy to sit back and relax at a cafe, you can live it up with locals and travelers alike at the many restaurants, bars, clubs of all kinds.

Other Info:
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