Cyprus: Lefkosia

[bjorn]

Escape the package-tour crowds and immerse yourself in Mediterranean culture by going off the beaten track to Cyprus. A mix of the Middle East, Europe, and the Mediterranean, Cyprus has ruins and vineyards, castles and monasteries, orchards and mountains. Cyprus' coastal towns offer sun and sand as well as 3000 years of history and culture.

Since the wall came down in Berlin, Lefkosia (Nicosia) is the only divided capital in the world. The Green Line splits the country of Cyprus into two domains: Turkish Northern Cyprus and Greek Cypriot Cyprus. The division has existed since the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974. Turkish mosques and Greek temples, Roman mosaics and Byzantine churches are just some of the cultural reminders of Cyprus' past. Cyprus is a blend of many cultures, and the art and architecture of the area reflect this. It's this intermingling and contrast of history and modern life that make the country appealing. Cyprus offers the tranquility of mountain villages, the ruins of prehistoric cities, the rocking nightlife of the Greek islands, a rich political past, and the sun and surf of the Mediterranean.

When to go:
Year-long sunshine and warm water until the fall, makes Cyprus a perfect beach destination. April through June and September through October are the best times to take advantage of Cyprus' mild Mediterranean climate.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
The ruins of Kourion outside Limassol; the Roman mosaics at Paphos; the rubble in Larnaca, one of the oldest known cities in the world; and the baths of Aphrodite near Polis, where the goddess mythically touched ground after her birth at sea, are some of the historic ruins around Cyprus to see. More modern historic sites include Nicosia's U.N.-guarded Green Line, which politically curious travelers can cross for a day to see the northern half of the city that remains under illegal Turkish occupation.

Museums:
Nicosia has the island's best museums, both in terms of ancient artifacts and exhibits chronicling the island's history and ethnicity. The Cyprus Museum has the largest collection of antiquities from all over the island. The Leventis Municipal Museum captures the 3-millennia history of the region that is now the city of Nicosia. The Cyrus Jeweler's Museum, the Byzantine Art Gallery, the Folk Art Gallery, and the Greek Independence War Gallery are all worth checking out if you are in Nicosia and their themes strike your interest.

Food/Culinary Info:
Cypriot food is a blend of Greek and Turkish influences. Barbeque, salads, and Greek/Turkish coffee are very popular. Meze, appetizer plates that can be a full meal (similar to Spanish tapas) are a specialty of Cyprus. Salty halloumi cheese, lightly grilled and served hot, kebabs, olives or some feta cheese are just a few items you might see. The winemaking industry is ancient on Cyprus Limassol is at the center of wine country. The village of Omodos, a town built in the era of the Lusignan Crusaders around the Monastery of the Holy Cross, in the Troodos Mountains north of town, is home to a traditional wine press or linos. Local bottles of red and white, as well as glasses almost fresh from the press can be sampled. The Laona vineyard in the nearby village of Arsos offers tours of its facilities, as does the Kilani Winery, in the less-frequented Kilani village. In Limassol, the KEO brewing company offers tours of its facilities.

Beach:
Paphos, Limassol, and Larnaca have their own municipal beaches. From these cities, resort complexes stretch along the coast on either side. Agia Napa in the country's southeast corner is a beachside party town. Polis in the northeast corner of the island is more village-y. Polis in the northwest has lovely waters and less-crowded beaches, and the beaches down the west coast between Cyprus are almost untouched.

Adventure:
Mt. Olympus is Cyprus' highest peak. A twelve-mile hike from the village of Troodos weaves around the peak of Mt. Olympus, and provides beautiful views of the island. The Cyprus Tourism Organization (CTO) office in Platres has plenty in the way of trail maps to help hikers out.

Natural Wonders:
The Troodos Mountains offer rugged hiking and fresh mountain air, but if you want more domesticated nature, Cyprus' city parks provide some relaxing green space. Limassol's public gardens are two acres of trees, bushes, shrubs, and flowers right by the sea. The Municipal Garden of Nicosia is a lush palm-tree-lined patch of greenery at the foot of the Venetian Walls. Both parks have cafés, so you can sip an afternoon coffee in the sun and enjoy the greenery.

Festivals/Events:
Greek Orthodox holidays are big religious and cultural celebrations in Greek Cyprus. Easter is the biggest celebration of the year with candle-lit processions, fireworks, and feasting. Cyprus Independence Day is celebrated on October 1st.

Nightlife/Bars:
If garden-variety beach resort bar/club hopping is your thing, then you've found a paradise on Cyprus. You won't find much variety in the nightlife if you stick to the coast, where bars and discotheques crowd the beaches. Nicosia provides a more varied urban scene, with more black-clad bohemians than blonds in bikinis, but the same Euro DJs mixing house tracks.

Gay & Lesbian:
Homosexuality is illegal in the Republic of Cyprus. Gay and lesbian life here is conservative, and this is definitely not an "out" destination. Though there isn't an active gay scene, there's *beep*, a gay nude beach in Limassol, and in Paphos and Nicosia some gay-friendly bars. Check out Africana (a disco that offers drag/gay nights on Monday), Evodokia Bar & Café, and Bastione.

Cost:
Compared to Europe, southern Cyprus is not too expensive. US$35 a day is a fair estimate of how much you might need a day. All over the country, things are cheaper in winter.

Getting Around:
Ferries frequently sail to Limassol in Southern Cyprus from Greece and Israel. Cheap, frequent, and efficient bus services run within and between towns every day except Sunday. If you want to travel on a Sunday, you'll need to get a service taxi.

If you enter Cyprus from Turkey, it's not possible to cross to the Republic.

Language:
Greek and Turkish are the local languages. Some people in the tourist industry speak English, but knowing Greek or Turkish (depending on what side of the island you are on) is helpful.

Party/Social Scene:
Unless you're at a party-oriented tourist resort like Agia Napa, you will find the island lifestyle very peaceful.

Other Info:
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