Czech Republic: Prague

[bjorn]

Prague is a city where people reinvent themselves - as punk rock visionaries, artists, Internet entrepreneurs, and modern day Kafkas. When the Eastern Bloc moved toward capitalism in the 1980s, Prague was at the forefront. The city now flourishes with cafes, restaurants, markets, and bars - as well as the world's largest Dunkin' Donuts and a fleet of McDonald's restaurants. Despite this turn towards Western-style capitalism, the city still has a turn-of-the-century feel to it. Visitors get a sense of history and romance when they wander a sunlit cobbled street or cross the famous Charles Bridge at dusk.

Prague is unimaginatively described as "the new Paris" by almost every travel book that comes along. There's some truth to the title though - like Paris, Prague has an active literary and cultural scene, plenty of atmosphere, and the requisite cafés. But the city that coined the word "bohemian" is quirkier and wilder than what you'd find in Paris most days.

When to go:
June and September are the best months to visit. The weather is sunny and warm. July and August is the height of the tourist season, and it's like New York City gridlock trying to cross the Charles Bridge. Prices drop 20-25 percent in the off-season (November through March), when the weather is rainier and colder.

What to Do:
Prague's prime attraction is its architecture. With its old churches, mysterious buildings along the narrow streets, dark alleyways and cozy bars, Prague is one of the most beautiful and intriguing cities in Europe.

History/Ruins:
The Old Town Hall astronomical clock, the Charles Bridge (Prague's postcard-worthy landmark), the Jewish section, and Prague Castle round out the historical offerings of Prague.

Shopping:
Prague's National Museum is worth visiting, but there are dozens of other, specialized museums to see, such as the Wax Museum, Museum of Musical Instruments, the Mozart and Kafka Museums, and the City of Prague Museum.

Artwork, marionettes, porcelain, and crystal are the biggest sellers. There are cheap souvenir stalls as well as high-end boutique shops. Marks and Spenser, Benetton, the Sunglass Hut, and many other multi-national retailers have brought their wares to Prague, but there are also local favorites to explore.

Food/Culinary Info:
Pork, dumplings, sausages, and beer, are staples of the national cuisine, but it is easy enough to find sandwich shops and restaurants that offer vegetarian dishes. For those looking for a walk on the wild side, you can start the evening with a pint of Pilsner or a shot of absinthe at a local bar. The 160 proof liquor is banned in the US because it was thought to cause mental illness.

Cultural Comments:
Beerhouses: The Czech Republic is responsible for pilsner, which comes from the city of Plzen. Also Lanterna Magika (Magic Lantern), an avant-garde theatre group from the 1950s, still performs using multi-screen film projections and live actors. Black Light theatre and puppet shows offer a different cultural experience.

Arts:
Prague has everything. Poetry readings, experimental and traditional theater, and local music (everything from '60s revival bands, Czech folk, and raw industrial/punk) can be found on any night of the week. The city's dozen or so rock clubs are always jammed, and you can hear international headliners like David Byrne and REM play at major venues. Opera, ballet, museums, and art galleries, round out the cultural scene in Prague.

Festivals/Events:
On April 30, Prague's Witches' Night is a pagan holiday that precedes May Day. To symbolically purge the last of the winter spirits, participants dance around the bonfires and throw effigies into the flames. You can usually find at least one major outdoor party atop Petrin hill in Prague 1 near the tower (Petrinska rozhledna).

Nightlife/Bars/Cafe Quotient:
During Prague's Communist years, cafés were "temples of intelligentsia" for impoverished, angst-stricken artists and writers. Now you can find travelers scribbling thoughtfully in journals over cappuccino, and locals teaching young Americans some basic Czech. In addition to cafés, teahouses have recently sprung up, and they serve as bars or clubs in the evenings. The club scene is wild - anything goes, from Top 40 to techno, cabarets to leather bars - and the cover is usually cheap.

Gay & Lesbian:
The area near the 'Metronom' on the top and next to the Belvedere Palace in Park Letna, Praha 7, near the Hanovsky Pavillion Restaurant is a big cruising area. There are plenty of clubs, most notably U Petra Voka and Drake's for the boys, and Stella, and the A Bar for the ladies. Several gay festivals are hosted in the summer months, most notably Parnik, a floating drag parade that cruises down the Vlatava in May. Timeout Prague (www.timeout.com) has a complete listing and the lowdown on the scene.

Cost:
Prague is more expensive than the rest of the Czech Republic, but it is still reasonably cheap by European standards.

Getting Around:
On Foot:
There is enough to see while strolling through the labyrinth of Prague's medieval streets that you may never visit a museum while visiting. The city is compact, walkable, and easy to navigate.

Metro:
Simple as it gets. Three lines.

Trams & Buses:
After walking, the most convenient way to see the city.

Train:
Prague is well-connected to local and international train lines. There are four train terminals. Most international lines leave from Holesovice.

Air:
Ruzyne, Prague's only airport is about 14 miles northwest of the center, and is not directly accessible by metro or tram. The state travel agency Cedok runs a shuttle service to the city center.

Safety:
Pickpockets are everywhere tourists are - particularly on the trams, at the Charles Bridge, and at the Old Town Hall when the clock chimes.

Language:
There is a large ex-pat community of young Americans in Prague, and Czechs are now used to foreign visitors. Many locals speak German and English as a second language, however, it is good to know basic phrases in Czech.

Party/Social Scene:
Prague is still a backpackers' paradise, and it is easy to meet locals, as well as other visitors. The best place to pick someone up is the Charles Bridge, where hawkers, musicians, and tourists hang out and soak up the sights.

Other Info:
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