Denmark: Copenhagen

[bjorn]

Copenhagen is not about little mermaids or moody princes. Even though fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen's little mermaid is the symbol of the city, and Shakespeare's famous Dane once moped around the area, Copenhagen is thoroughly modern, and totally hip. Whether you come for Mardi Gras in May, the jazz festivals in August, or just to see all the sights, you're sure to get plenty of stories out of this city. And that's no fairy tale.

When to go:
Like most of Europe, summer is high season in Denmark. Correspondingly, May through September is the most popular time to visit, with July and August being the high points of high season. Winter is cold, but not unbearable. Early spring is also a good time to visit.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
Royal Palaces are an important part of the historic landscape in Copenhagen. Rosenbord, Amalienborg, and Christianborg are three palaces right in Copenhagen. Frederiksborg, the Versailles of Denmark, is just outside the city. Part of Copenhagen's modern history is the "Free Town of Christiania." Organized in 1971 by hippies in response to the city's housing situation, Christiania is not what you would expect of modern Denmark. Depending on your view, the area is a wasteland of hash sellers, graffiti and unpaved streets, or a youthful political symbol filled with murals, nightclubs, and wonderfully painted houses.

Museums:
Copenhagen's museums include Ny Carlesberg Glyptotek, which has an excellent collection of art and sculpture from the Greek, Egyptian, Etruscan, and Roman periods. The Nationalmuseet (National Museum) houses Danish historical artifacts, the Statens Museum has a collection of 19th century Danish fine arts, and the Thorvaldsens Museum has sculpture.

In addition to world-class art and cultural exhibitions, the Danish also have some truly bizarre museums. As well as the Guinness World of Records Museum, Tussaud's Wax Museum and Ripley's Believe It or Not!, there is the Erotica Museum, the Medical History Museum, the Tobacco Museum, the Police History Museum, and the Storm P. Museum. Storm P. was a Danish cartoonist and comedian - the museum is a tribute to his work and has exhibits about different phases of his career.

Shopping:
World-class shopping and wonderful street performers can be found at Stroget, a mile-long pedestrian area that has exclusive shops and department stores. Denmark's largest mall, the Scala Center is also in the city. If antiques and odds & ends are more your style, visit the Saturday Fleamarket on Israels Plads. Amber, silver, china, and glass are traditional Danish souvenirs.

Food/Culinary Info:
Want to learn about brewing and get some free beer, too? Go on one of the Carlsberg Brewery tours.

Adventure
Tivoli is more than an amusement park - it's a total Danish cultural experience. Open-air concerts, dancing, theater, and other special events, as well as food stalls and rides compete for your attention. The park has existed since 1843, and you can visit the Tivoli Museum to learn about the evolution of this cultural institution.

Arts:
Copenhagen is known in Europe as the "Jazz Capital" of the region. The city prides itself on cool bars where you can hear great tunes. The Royal Theatre has world-class opera, ballet and theater in a sumptuous setting.

Festivals/Events:
Denmark's main events are the hundred-plus music festivals which run almost non-stop, covering a broad spectrum of music that includes jazz, rock, blues, gospel, Irish, classical, country and Cajun. The Copenhagen Jazz Festival, held for 10 days in early July, one of the world's major jazz festivals and the Copenhagen Summer Festival during the last week of July and the first two weeks of August are highlighted events. The Copenhagen Carnival, a sort of Mardi Gras held in May, and the city's free park concerts are also fun festivities to participate in.

Nightlife/Bars:
Copenhagen is a fun place, and there's a party somewhere 24/7. Stroget is a good place to start your evening, as street performers keep things lively on your way to a restaurant, cafe, or bar. The Norrebro area has a lot of clubs and pubs, but check local listings for up-to-date.

Gay & Lesbian:
Since 1989, gay marriages and divorces have been legal in Denmark. Gay couples have many of the same rights as hetero couples. Because of this generally open attitude by the locals in Copenhagen, gays and lesbians are pretty open, walking hand-in-hand on the street, especially in areas like the Stroget, a pedestrians-only shopping - and cruising - area, located right in the center of the city. There are a bunch of gay establishments, but these are often frequented by gay and straight alike. Try the area near the university, on Studiestraede for a fine, if small, selection of gay bars and shops.

Cost:
The Danish unit of currency is the kroner. Denmark is expensive. A 25% tax on almost everything makes costs high. It's possible to see Denmark without spending a fortune by taking advantage of Denmark's extensive network of camping grounds and hostels, eating at inexpensive restaurants and all-you-can eat places, and using public transport. If you tried to cut costs, you might get by on US$30 a day. If you were less conservative, you could expect to spend about US$65-75 a day.

Getting Around:
Walk around Copenhagen, or peddle around on one of the many bicycle lanes that span the city. Transport around Copenhagen is easy. An integrated network of buses and electric S-trains (S-tog) covers the whole of Copenhagen and the surrounding areas between 5 a.m. and 12.30 a.m., after which a night bus (Natbusserne) system comes into operation. At night, especially if you are with others, taxis are the way to go. The basic taxi fare is 22kr plus 7.70kr per kilometre (9.60kr after 6pm and on weekends).

Language:
Danish is the national language, but English and German are widely spoken. Danish is one of the more difficult European languages for non-natives to learn. It is almost impossible to pronounce simply by reading the words, as many syllables are swallowed rather than spoken.

Party/Social Scene:
There's plenty of opportunity to socialize with locals and travelers.

Other Info:
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