England: Brighton

[bjorn]

On pebbly Brighton Beach where fishermen use to haul in their catch, pale Brits now skinny-dip. Tawdry and a bit risque, it is hard to believe that the seaside metropolis of Brighton was once just a small fishing village. The narrow 17th century streets and posh Georgian homes host bed and breakfast guests, and The Lanes, where fishermen used to live, are now a tightly clustered network of alleys, posh antiques shops and cafes. Both modern and quaint, Brighton is the typical English seaside resort, the kind you see in old movies - complete with a pier and souvenir shops. Palace Pier is on par with Coney Island and the Atlantic City Boardwalk when it comes to gaudy, silly fun. There are rides, fun houses, shows, shops, bars, rides and plenty of bad-for-you amusement park food. The onion-domed Royal Pavilion, a wild British pastiche of an Indian palace, is at the center of it all. What makes Brighton such a fun place to visit is this mix of mannered English-ness, cotton-candy fluff, and seedy seaside nightlife. The perfect day or weekend trip from London, Brighton is worth checking out.

When to go:
The shoulder months of April-May and September-October are perhaps the best months to visit. Off season (Nov-March) is preferable if you are more an indoor traveler. Summer is the most pleasant time, but also the most crowded.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
The Volk's Railway, Brighton Marina, Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, the Royal Pavilion and the Brighton Pier are Brighton's main attractions.

Museums:
Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, the Artist's Quarter, the Dolls House, the Fishing Museum and the British Engineerium keep museum-goers busy. If you are interested in a nontraditional museum, check out the National Museum of Penny Slot Machines which houses antique slot machines and gaming lore.

Shopping:
Churchill Square, an indoor shopping center, has every designer shop you could imagine. Antiques shops, designer boutiques and bars, pubs and restaurants can be found at the Lanes. If you are looking for something a little funky, check out the Upper Gardner Street Junk Market, where you can find all kinds of odds-and-ends and antiques on the weekend.

Food/Culinary Info:
Brighton Rock, a type of candy made famous by the Graham Greene novel of the same name, is a must try while in Brighton.

Beach
Brighton's beaches are of the pebbly variety, and the water is invariably cold, but it's worth visiting one just for the people watching. Be aware though, that Brighton Beach is one of England's first "naturist" beaches where the sights you'll see might be more than just the waves crashing on the shore.

Arts:
High-culture is not exactly Brighton's forte, but the city does have some lovely theatres, and plenty of quality productions. Brighton Centre and the Dome host jazz and rock concerts. The Victorian Theatre Royal and Komedia have theatre and cabaret acts.

Festivals/Events:
Brighton holds an international festival of theater and shows every May. It is also the destination of the London-Brighton Vintage Car Rally, held every December.

Nightlife/Bars:
Brighton is Fatboy Slim's hometown, and he still occasionally plays at The Boutique. Dance or house music plays at the clubs, and along the pier, people drink pints at the pubs. Called "London-by-the-Sea" Brighton certainly compares club-wise to the capital.

Gay & Lesbian:
Brighton is the Gay Capital of Southern England. Where else would you find the intersection of Queen Square and Dyke Road? Kemp Town, also known as Camp Town, has a vibrant gay and lesbian scene, plenty of clubs, and a youthful spirit. Telescombe Beach is a popular gay nude bathing spot.

Cost:
Brighton is best experienced as a day trip from London. You should note that England in general is pretty expensive, and costs in London are high.

Getting Around:
us and train connects Brighton to the rest of England. Bikes, boats and in-line skates are available for rental near the waterfront.

Language:
English.

Party/Social Scene:
There's plenty to do in "London-by-the-Sea", for gay and straight travelers, looking for fellow travelers and locals alike.

Other Info:
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