New Zealand: Auckland

[bjorn]

It is said that one in every ten Aucklanders owns a boat. On a sunny day, it seems that everyone is out on the harbor. Perhaps that is why New Zealand's largest city feels like a small town. Despite the skyscrapers, glass and concrete, the city is peaceful. The noise, traffic and pollution of many major cities seem to have bypassed Auckland.

Auckland is a city for people who love the outdoors. Situated between the Manakau and Waitamata Harbours, and built on a lush landscape of around fifty extinct volcanoes, the landscape is one of hills and sea. Hikers, sailors and surfers might think they've found paradise. Home to the America's Cup yacht race, Auckland has a well-earned reputation as the City of Sails.

If urban delights are more to your liking, Auckland boasts some of the best nightlife in New Zealand, funky neighborhoods to explore, and hip cafes to lounge at. Combining the largest Polynesian population in the world, with 150 years of European and Asian influence, the city is a cultural mecca and a joy to explore.

When to go:
It is always nice in New Zealand, and there are things to see and do all year round. The warmer months (November to April) are busiest, especially during the summer (December-January) holidays. Auckland's climate is often described as muggy, but it is never scorching hot, and the heat is always cooled by a sea breeze. Winters are generally mild but rainy.

What to Do:
Museums:
Auckland is home to many fine galleries and museums. The Auckland Museum is noted for its Maori art and displays of New Zealand's natural history. Downtown, the Auckland Art Gallery is host to traveling shows as well as a permanent collection of New Zealand and European works. The Hobson Wharf Maritime Museum on the city waterfront depicts New Zealand maritime history.

Shopping:
Parnell, Newmarket and Ponsonby are popular shopping strips. A short walk from downtown Auckland, Parnell Road is the place to come for an afternoon's window-shopping - in between sipping cappuccinos and people watching at one of the area's trendy cafes. Walk a little further away from the city center and you come to Newmarket, a bustling neighborhood great for no-nonsense shopping. Ponsonby on the opposite side of the city center to Parnell also has trendy cafes and bars, but with a grungier and homier feel.

Food/Culinary Info:
You can find almost any type of cuisine in Auckland. Fresh and delicious, the seafood is a must. If you are a lobster fan make sure you take the time to sample the similarly tasting New Zealand Crayfish. Fish and chips are cheap and easy staple that taste even better in New Zealand.

Beach:
Several beaches are accessible from Auckland and Devonport. Judges Bay and Mission Bay are two near the city center. In general, Auckland's eastern shoreline offers calm water and protected beaches, while the western shores boast wild waves, good surfing, and desolate windswept beaches.

There are over 100 beaches within an hour of the city center and some of the most picaresque are worth driving to. Piha, the black sand beach seen in The Piano is one of the most scenic. Others in the vicinity include Karekare (a very rough surf beach) and Muriwai, known for its gannet bird colony.

Adventure:
Experience the wild Antarctic landscape through Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World and Antarctic Encounter. You can see real live Penguins, explore the Antarctic landscape in a Snow Cat, and take a journey beneath the ocean and come face to face with ferocious sharks. A cross between your local aquarium and a ride at Disneyworld, Kelly Tarlton's is a fun way to spend a few hours. Another adventure is Rainbow's End, New Zealand's largest amusement park with a corkscrew roller coaster, log flume and pirate ship rides.

Natural Wonders:
Auckland has wonderful parks that provide amazing views of the city and harbor.

One of the best views of the city can be seen from One Tree Hill. U2 wrote a song with the same name in memory of a friend who is buried nearby. A lonely pine tree grows on the summit of what is not actually a hill, but a volcanic cone. The tree is the burial site of one of Auckland's 'founding' fathers, Sir John Campbell, as well as the location of a pre-European Maori fortification (pa). The Maori name for the hill is Maungakiekie - mountain of the kiekie (climber or vine).

To get a good overview of Auckland, hike the Coast To Coast Walkway. This well-marked urban trail crosses the nine km of land that separate the Pacific Ocean on the east from the Tasman Sea on the west. The walk offers tremendous views of the city, the main harbors, two volcanic peaks and passes through parks, gardens, and woods.

To enjoy Auckland's natural beauty, visit the Domain. A large green expanse of park land in the center of a 50,000 year old crater, the Auckland Domain is an ideal place to exercise, play or learn. Jogging trails, duck ponds, rugby and cricket pitches, as well as the glass house Wintergardens and the War Memorial Museum are just some of the Domain's attractions.

Arts:
When it comes to the arts, think fun rather than fancy. Classical music, theater, opera and ballet can be seen throughout the year at the Aotea Centre, but Auckland is really known for its comedy. Several pubs (including Kitty O'Brien's and the Masonic) host regular stand-up comedy, while in late April and early May, local stand-up comics and well-known international acts perform during the two-week comedy festival.

Nightlife/Bars:
Auckland undoubtedly has New Zealand's largest and most exciting club scene. Home to many Kiwi bands, and visiting international acts, the city has plenty to do in the evening.

Gay & Lesbian:
Auckland's gay scene is low-key. Gay bars and clubs are alongside more mainstream venues around Ponsonby, Parnell and Newmarket. For gay North Islanders, the two-week Hero Festival in late-February, and the Lesbian and Gay Film Festival are two big events to look forward to.

Cost:
The New Zealand dollar is the unit of currency. Costs in New Zealand are reasonable - you can stay at a hostel and eat at budget places for about US$35-40 a day.

Getting Around:
Auckland is New Zealand's main international gateway and has excellent transport connections to the rest of the country. Auckland's public transport system is made up of buses, trains and ferries. Bus is usually the easiest and most affordable way to get around the city.

Safety:
Auckland is no more dangerous than any major city. Just be aware of your surroundings and your belongings and you should be fine.

Language:
Everyone in New Zealand speaks English, and some people speak Maori. Until recently Maori was almost considered a dead language. It is making a comeback though, and is a point of pride for many New Zealanders.

Party/Social Scene:
Auckland isn't known as a great city for nightlife but, with a million people to entertain, there is always something going on, even if it is just a night down at the local pub. Keep an eye out for flyers if you are into raves. They are not always easy to find, but the local outdoor raves are worth the hunt.

Other Info:
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