Austria: Vienna

[bjorn]

From high art to high kitsch, Vienna is an artistic wonder. Many of Europe's cultural and intellectual greats were born or lived in Vienna - Mozart, Schubert, Klimt, Kafka, Freud to name just a few - and they contributed to a still thriving artistic and academic community. The art and music scene flourishes in Vienna. Art schools dot the city and students contribute to the sense of culture and creativity. Academia is also alive and well. Cafés are packed with closet intellectuals self-mockingly psychoanalyzing their angst over sacher torte and strudel as waltz music plays in the background. Young people flock to this capital city to share ideas in a place where experimentalism rules in the political, cultural, and social arenas. Travelers find themselves lingering in Vienna to explore the centuries of history, culture and beauty the city has to offer.

When to go:
It's really hard to say which is the best time to see Vienna. Some people visit for the gardens that bloom in spring, or to see art and jazz festivals that swing in the summer months; others come during the tourist-free fall or the crisp, cold, beautiful winter. When you go is more a factor of what you want to do and see. However, keep in mind that the Opera, Philharmonic, Boys' Choir, and the Lippizzaner Stallions take their breaks during one or more of the summer months, so it's a good idea to see what's playing and when before you go.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
Baroque and medieval architecture line the streets. The Hapsburgs' Belvedere Palace is a sight everyone goes to and everyone will tell you to go. The opulence and architecture are unbelievable - and it's just one of many historic buildings worth seeing. Just go.

Museums:
Thanks to the vast collections of the Hapsburgs (in addition to local artists), Vienna is filled with museums bearing the art of the greats - old and new. Anything from the birthplace of Sigmund Freud to the horses of the Lippizaner can be found in a museum in or around Vienna. The city's two must-see, major museums are the Kunsthistorisches and the Naturhistorisches. The Clown and Circus Museum is one of Vienna's more comical attractions, with homages to circus greats like P.T. Barnum and Buffalo Bill. Other obscure museums include the Clock Museum, the Criminal Museum (which concentrates on murder and executions), the Electropathological Museum, and the Esperanto Museum (which celebrates the artificial world language of peace).

Shopping:
Time in Vienna is better spent seeing the sights. This can be an expensive city for visiting in general, and for shopping in particular. Department stores like Gerngross, Herzmansky, Steffl, and Stafa are all located around Mariahilfer Strass. Despite the high cost of designer wares and department store goods, bargains can be had at Vienna's many antique/bric-a-brac/junk emporia and concomitant flea markets (Flohmarkt). A visit to the Naschmarkt, Vienna's premier open-air fruit and vegetable market, should be on everyone's itinerary.

Side Trips:
There are buses running from Vienna to many of the surrounding areas, including the history-laden Carnuntum, mineral spas of Mödling (whose charm drew Mozart, Hugo, and Klimt) and Bratislava, Slovakia, which is just an hour and a half away.

Food/Culinary Info:
Dumplings, pork and pig's knuckles, cream sauces, sausages, strudels, bread puddings, and tortes are just some highlights of Austria's native cuisine. If high-calorie dining is not your style, don't worry: Austria is becoming more health conscious and there are a lot of alternative choices. You can find everything from Serbian to Chinese to French - oh, and traditional Austrian food, too. Dining can get kind of expensive, so check out the Produce Market for light meals and snacks, or try the coffee at one of the open food stands.

Adventure:
The Vienna Woods are about 50 miles outside of Vienna, but worth the trip for the views. While you're in the area, take a hike to the summit of Kahlenberg, a hill on the northeastern range of the Alps. Rumor has it that on a clear day you can see forever - or at least to Hungary.

Natural Wonders:
If you want a break from the museums, wander through some of the city's parks and gardens and smell the roses. Or check out the Prater (between the Danube River and Danube Canal) for the giant Ferris wheel, the Riesenrad, or one of the other carnival rides and attractions.

Cultural Comments:
Above all the museums and culture and history of Vienna, one thing that stands out is the kindness of the people, and how welcoming they can be. If you want to find a great place to stay or visit, a good way to find out is to ask someone who lives there.

Arts:
A classical music lover's nirvana, you can take in the Vienna Boys Choir at the Hofburg Palace Chapel or some opera at the Staatsoper (State Opera House), just for a start. But Vienna's not just about classical, there's jazz, theatre, film screenings throughout the city and featured in festivals year round.

Festivals/Events:
Year-round you can find a festival in Vienna. Whether it's jazz in July, Krampus parties in December or Carnival in spring, you can find a festival for your tastes. Film, dance, classical music, and Christmas all have their moment in the Austrian sun.

Nightlife/Bars:
If you want a beer, this is the right city. Vienna is flush with enough clubs and bars and discos to quench any thirst, whether it's a glass of wine with your sweetheart, a pitcher with the gang, or the need to go dancing till dawn. The pub and club activities don't really get going until after midnight, but you can partake of the festivities any night of the week. The three streets that converge on Danube Canal have been nicknamed the Bermuda Triangle because partiers go into the many establishments and don't resurface...

Cafe Quotient:
Cafes are on every corner with waiters in tuxes who allow you to linger over an espresso to your heart's delight. From elegant turn of the century teahouses to funky coffee bars, there are plenty of places to sit and have a pastry with your coffee, write in your journal, and people-watch for a couple of hours. Cafe dining is a little pricey, but worth it for the experience.

Gay & Lesbian:
Make yourself at home here. Gay and lesbian travelers have plenty of options for gay-friendly restaurants, clubs, saunas, and bars. In general, you can feel reasonably safe in the city. Pick up the Gay City Map, which identifies many gay and lesbian-oriented establishments around Vienna. The gay pride parade, called the Regenbogenparade takes place here every year in June or July. Check out a monthly paper like Extra, Rainbow Life, or the Vienna Gay Guide to find out what's happening and where.

Cost:
Vienna can be pretty expensive, but if you do your research and plan ahead you can get a decent place to stay and some really good food without breaking the bank.

Museums are free on Fridays before noon. If one museum just isn't enough, the Vienna Card is a worthwhile purchase. The three-day pass includes underground, tram or bus privileges, discounts in some shops, restaurants and sightseeing events, and reductions ranging from 10% (Kunsthistorisches Museum) to 55% (Albertina).

To save on food, eat at a wurstelstande, where you can get cheap sausages and beer, or stop by a beisl, a typical Viennese tavern that serves low-cost, home-cooked food. Ask your waiter if bread and side dishes are included, as they often do not come with meals, but appear on your table. The currency of Austria is the Euro.

Getting Around:
Vienna International Airport (Wien-Schwechat Flughafen) is about 11 miles from the heart of the city and there are buses, trains and shuttles that will bring you downtown easily and for a fraction of the cost of a cab ride. The city is laid out like a wheel, with 23 districts radiating outward. With buses, trains, and subways, public transportation makes Vienna easy and relatively inexpensive to navigate. Most tourist attractions are located close to the center of the city. Trains run from very early to very late, and after midnight there are buses that run all night long. You can get tickets each time you ride, or get a one, three, or seven-day pass. There is also the Vienna Card, which gives you three days of travel, plus discounts at various attractions around the city. Car and bike rentals are also available, though the driving can feel a bit frenetic. Take to the streets by foot and you'll see the real Vienna.

Safety:
Like any other big city, you need to be aware of yourself and your surroundings - if you look like a victim (i.e., tourist), it's easier to become one. The areas around Karlsplatz and Landstrasser Haupstr. tend to host a dangerous element after dark, as do the Prater and 5th, 10th, and 14th districts.

Language:
German. Many students and hostel staff speak English. It helps to speak some German, but if you have a phrasebook, you'll get by just fine.

Party/Social Scene:
Thanks to the big student population (including University of Vienna and their renowned medical school), cafe and arts scene, all the pubs and clubs, plus the welcoming atmosphere, Vienna is a great place to hang out and meet people.

Other Info:
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