Peru: Cuzco

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At 9,000 feet in the Andes, you can't help feeling lightheaded about Cuzco. Its beauty, history and traditions are amazing. Once the capital of the Incan Empire, Cuzco has existed for nine centuries under Incan and Spanish rule. Today, Cuzco is a thriving Quencha Indian town that possesses a very strong sense of history and identity. The city's Inca walls and ruins, historic buildings and Incan descendants in traditional garb provide a retrospective of its dynamic cultural history. Visitors can learn of Andean folklore and Inca traditions, experience delicious typical meals, and view monuments that haven't changed much since the time of the Incas.

Cuzco is the gateway to Machu Picchu, one of the world's greatest archeological sites. Hidden from the outside world for centuries, the "Lost City" is considered the greatest mystery of the Inca Empire. Some visitors speak of the mystical quality of the site that the Incas felt centuries ago; others are attracted to the incredible natural beauty of the Andean landscape. Standing at the ancient ruins, as the sun rises through the morning mist convinces most people of "the glory of the Incan Empire."

When to go:
Most visitors come during the dry season between May to September, but anytime is good to visit. Be prepared for weather changes (even in the peak of summer) and wear layers of clothing. There are two seasons: rainy between November and March, and dry and warm between April and October. However, during June, July, and August the temperature can drop to freezing.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
The town of Cuzco is rich with ruins. You'll notice fine Incan stonework everywhere from your hostel to the walls of Loreto Street. Interested in Andean religious art? The Cathedral, Church and Convent of La Merced, Church and Convent of Santo Domingo, San Blas Church, Church and Convent of San Francisco, Archbishop´s Palace are full of artifacts, architecture and icons. Prefer historic sites? Exploring Machu Picchu, the Urubamba Sacred Valley, Kenko, Sacsayhuaman, Pisac and Ollantaytambo will keep even the most ardent historians busy. Cultural history is one of the primary reasons to visit the area.

Museums:
Highlights include the artists' quarter of San Blas, the Archbishops's Palace- the place to go if religious art is your thing, the Museo Arqueologíco, with its pre-Inca and Inca displays and one of the finest examples of Inca architecture, and the Museo de Historia Regional, which features historical and archeological items.

Shopping:
You can buy everything from basic necessities to exotic souvenirs in Cuzco. While the town is not known for designer goods or chic boutiques, anything you might need for a camping or rafting trip is available. Crafts, weavings, and Andean clothing are inexpensive souvenirs from this area.

Food/Culinary Info:
Peru has several unique national dishes you should sample. Cerviche is raw fish marinated in enough lemon, chilies and garlic to keep it fresh. Cuy, grilled whole Peruvian guinea pig (usually served with a cherry tomato in its mouth) is another delicacy. Lomo saltado (chopped steak fried with onions, tomatoes and potatoes), fried pork or chicken is also on the menu. Chifas, or Chinese restaurants, are popular, as is the menu del dia at local restaurants.

Adventure:
Seeing Machu Picchu is one thing. Experiencing it the way the Incas did is another. Of all the popular hikes in South America, the three to five-day Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu is the one most travelers want to do. Machu Picchu was essentially a site of spiritual and ceremonial significance, with important agricultural functions. Throughout the hike, you view the remains of the Incan civilization, finally arriving at Machu Picchu.

The awe-inspiring, eerily beautiful remains are now known to be not merely a lost city, but part of an entire lost region. The site has about 200 habitation structures, temples and fountains.

You must be in decent shape-even if you hire porters-as the trail is often steep, and not afraid of heights, as the hairpin curves climb to over 13,775 ft. You must be in excellent shape if you plan to carry your own pack.

Natural Wonders:
After a long hike and no hot showers, clean up in nearby Aguas Calientes at the village's outdoor hot springs.

Arts:
Pre-Columbian and colonial Spanish influences have significantly contributed to the Andean cultural heritage. Cuzco's architecture, art and music exemplify this. The 16th-18th century cathedrals and monasteries in the area often have Incan foundations and Spanish facades. The escuela cuzquena (Cuzco school) of art is a blend of Indian and Spanish religious style that can be seen in paintings and sculptures at Cuzco's museums. Traditional Andean music is often played at bars or restaurants around Cuzco. Musical groups might consist of several wind instruments like horns and bamboo flutes, a percussion instrument, usually rattles or drums, and a string instrument, like the charango, a five stringed guitar (a Spanish addition).

Festivals/Events:
Religious festivals are particularly festive in Cuzco. The festival of El Senor de los Tremblores (Lord of the Earthquakes) held before Easter, Corpus Christi in June, La Virgen del Carmen in late July are worth making a special effort to see. Inti Rami, the sun festival, happens on June 24. This winter solstice festival fills the ruins of Sacsayhuaman with people during the day, and fills the streets of Cuzco with revelers at night.

Nightlife/Bars:
Cuzco is a backpacker's haunt, and there are plenty of places to kickback before or after your hike. Open from 10 a.m. till dawn, many bars have dancing, music, food and movies throughout the day and night. Cuzco's bars aren't just a good place for a cold beer - they are meeting points for travelers, places to check your email, and great resources if you are exploring other parts of Peru or South America.

Cost:
It is not expensive to exist in Cuzco. Costs in Peru are lower, on average, than those in developed countries. Lima and Cuzco are the most expensive places in Peru though. US$25 will cover basic needs like food and a hostel bed, but if you are in Cuzco, you'll probably want to see some museums and visit Machu Picchu. If you want some minor luxuries and want to visit some sites, US$50 is a better estimate. Three to five day hikes are usually all-inclusive (minus tips and porter fees), and many can be had for US$20-70/a day. Recent legislation involving park fees might make tours more expensive.

It takes a few days to acclimate yourself to the altitude in Cuzco. So wander the town and visit the many archaeological sites, temples around the area. The Cuzco tourist ticket, valid for ten days, covers admissions to sixteen sites. Students with IDs get ½ off the cost of the ticket.

Getting Around:
Most visitors arrive by plane, though you can reach Cuzco by bus or train as well. Peru's bus system is extensive and cheap. Train routes are less extensive, more expensive, but a lot more comfortable. Mini-buses are the best way to travel shorter distance to local towns.

Safety:
Don't walk the Inca Trail yourself - go with at least three or four other people. Independent hikers have been robbed, or gotten hurt or lost on the trail. The altitude and weather are important considerations for even experienced hikers to think about before heading out alone. Tour costs are not much more than a group of three or four people would spend outfitting themselves for a trip. A number of people have died after falling while climbing Huayna Picchu, a peak near Machu Picchu. Porters and guides, who regularly hike the trail, know the best way to climb it.

Visitors should be aware of pickpockets on trains and in the market areas. In Cuzco, muggings are common, particularly on streets leading off the main square and around the train station. Be wary of anyone who approaches you on the streets with offers of transportation or guide services.

Also be aware of your health in Cuzco - it takes at least a day or two for your body to adjust to the high altitude, which can cause insomnia, headaches, nausea, and altitude sickness. Don't hike the trail the day after you arrive. In addition, use sunblock rated at least 15 SPF, because the risk of sunburn is greater at high altitudes.

Language:
Spanish, Quechua, Aymara are languages spoken in and around Cuzco. Learn some basic Spanish before you go, though guides and hostel owners often speak some English.

Party/Social Scene:
With an all-day-all-night social scene, Cuzco's bars are great for meeting other travelers, checking your email, and just kicking back for a few hours with movies and food - that is in addition to hanging out and having a beer, or dancing till dawn.

Other Info:
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