Switzerland: Lucerne

[bjorn]

Picture the ideal Suisse town, at the end of a lake, with its cobblestone streets, covered bridges, and fountains in between snowy Alpine peaks... that's Lucerne. Now combine that vision with a town on the banks of the Ruess River and add great opportunities for outdoor activities during the summer, and festivals and museums you'd expect from much larger cities... now you understand why Lucerne is a traveler's favorite.

When to go:
With its focus on outdoor activities, summer (May-October) is the high season in Lucerne. Winter is a close second. Try early spring and late fall for better deals on lodging.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
Lucerne was historically the gateway to the south and the wealthy Italian markets, making it an important trading area in medieval times. The Kapellbrucke will take you back to that era. It's a covered bridge over the Ruess River that's more than 650 years old. Further down the river is another old bridge, the Spreuerbruke. Both have triangle ceiling supports that are painted with some interesting images. The Museggmauer and its nine towers define Lucerne's skyline. Three of the towers have stairs to the top and give an amazing view!

Museums:
The Picasso Museum features a choice collection of his works, including paintings, drawings, sculpture, and ceramics from the artist's last 20 years. The Richard Wagner Museum focuses on the composer's time in Lucerne, from 1866-1872, with original scores and memorabilia like letters and pictures. The Verkehrshaus der Schwiez (Swiss Transport Museum) is known as the best museum of its kind in Europe. On display are all forms of transport from rail cars to space ships. It also has a planetarium and IMAX theater.

Shopping:
If you like flea markets, be sure to hit the one on both sides of Untere Burgerstrasse. On the first Saturday of each month, artists and craftspeople sell their works at Weinmarkt. And if you're looking for more highbrow boutiques, go to the Bahnhof Shopping Center. It has more than 30 shops.

Food/Culinary Info:
If you're a bargain-hunting traveler, stock up for picnics at the fruit and vegetable market. It's held on Tuesdays and Saturdays on both banks of the River. You can also find cheap sit down meals in supermarkets and department stores. Try the one upstairs in Migros on Hertensteinstr. Krone on Rosslig. is popular with tourists looking for a quick, cheap bite. Opus on Bahnhofstr. in the Altstadt is the least expensive of the restaurants along the quays.

Beach:
The lake beaches are called lidos in Lucerne. During the summertime, the lido on Lake Lucerne is a popular place to take a dip or a swim. It's near the Verkehrshaus.

Adventure:
Check with the Lucerne tourist office for info on rafting trips, paragliding, and canyoning. There are a few adventure tourism companies in the area that offer the adrenaline adventures.

Natural Wonders:
The easiest and cheapest way to check out Lake Lucerne is to take a ferry. The other, more expensive, option is a boat cruise. Northeast of the city you'll find the Lion Monument. It's carved from rock to honor the Swiss soldiers who died in the French Revolution. Two major mountain peaks look out on Lucerne. Mount Pilatus is in the elite 7,000 foot summit class. You can get to the top by cogwheel train or cable car to see the amazing panoramic views of the Alps. Pilatus' neighbor is Rigi Kulm, one of the most famous mountains in Europe. Rigi is known for its scenic views of Lake Lucerne and two other nearby lakes. Rigi's summit is 5,900 feet, and it takes between five and six hours to hike to the top, or you can take a cog rail or cable car.

Arts:
The local orchestra is the Allgemeine Musikgesellschaft Luzern. Its season runs from October to June, and its home is at Kunsthaus. The Luzener Theater is on the waterfront. Its productions are usually in German; opera is usually in its original language.

Festivals/Events:
Rowing is a very popular sport in this lake-oriented region. So it stands to reason that July is chocked full of rowing events. There are three in succession: the Swiss Rowing Championships, the Olympic Qualifier, and the Rowing World Cup. In late July you'll also get a taste of the first of two blues events. Blues Session is a highlight of late July, Blues Festival is in November. World-known blues guitarists Bo Diddlely and Buddy Guy have played Lucerne. And if you really dig the music scene, there's the Lucerne International Festival of Music that begins in mid-August and runs for four weeks.

Nightlife/Bars:
The Old Town in Lucerne shuts down at 7pm, thanks to noise laws. So the partying moves to the Haldenstr part of town. The closest bar on that street is called Hexenkessel. Further down under the Carlton hotel is Club 57. Look for a DJ on the weekends.

Cafe Quotient:
While some restaurants have some great streetside sitting, Lucerne isn't really a big cafe town.

Gay & Lesbian:
Pick up a monthly calendar of events published by Homosexuelle Arbeitsgruppen Luzern at the tourist office. Uferlos Bar is a popular gay hangout on Geissensteinringstr.

Cost:
Switzerland is an expensive place and Lucerne is no exception. You can still stay here, though, without spending too much money if you skip shopping sprees and keep nights on the town simple. It's possible to stay in Lucerne for under US$40 a day, if you stay in hostels and eat cheaply. If you're staying in mid-range hotels and eating at good restaurants, US$70 is a more realistic daily minimum.

Getting Around:
Lucerne has a good bus system, and you can purchase 1,3, and 7 day passes. With that bus pass and the city's official guidebook (that you can pick up at any hotel) you'll get unlimited number of rides. You'll be able to see most of the town's attractions on foot. Bike rental is available at the train station.

Safety:
It's easy to get lulled into a false sense of security in this beautiful landscape. It's safe here, but as in any tourist town, use your common sense.

Language:
Luzerners speak German. But as a tourist destination, English is also spoken in many hotels and businesses.

Party/Social Scene:
The Altstadt shuts down in the early evening. But the clubs over on Haldenstr. stay open til 4am.

Other Info:
Click here for weather forecast from Weather.com.