Thailand: Bankok

[bjorn]

Bangkok is called Krung Thep in Thai, which translates to City of Angels. The tourism board calls the city "the Big Mango," in homage to the Big Apple. There is little similarity between the Thai capital and Los Angeles or New York, other than its sprawling layout, traffic jams, and heavy dose of American pop culture. Bangkok is definitely another world.

You can buy anything, at anytime, in Bangkok. You can do anything here - from lounging in a luxury hotel, to betting on a *beep*, or sipping snake blood. From raunchy sex shows to early morning almsgiving ceremonies, the face of the city changes by the minute. Bangkok never stops moving, which makes the tranquility and beauty of Bangkok's Buddhist temples all the more amazing. Tradition and religion exist in tandem with modernity and excess. Bangkok is a jolt to the senses.

When to go:
The rainy season in Bangkok (July thru October) is probably not the ideal time to go- the city is often flooded. Any other time of the year is fine though - the weather is consistently tropical, with March thru July being the hottest months.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
There are over 400 temples in Bangkok, but the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are must-sees. Wat Po or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, as it is also known, has the biggest Buddha in the city. It is 150 feet long and 50 feet high, covered with gold leaf, and mother of pearl inlay on the soles of the feet.

Museums:
Bangkok has quite a few museums, including the National Museum, the Royal Barges National Museum, King Rama V's Vimanmek Teak Mansion, and the National Gallery for fine arts. Bangkok also has many smaller museums, including the Royal Thai Air Force Museum and the Hall of Railway Heritage.

Shopping:
Bangkok offers everything from T-shirts and fake designer clothing hawked by street vendors, to high-end watches and haute couture sold at air-conditioned malls. Anything can be bought in this city. Siam Square and Mahboonkrong Center have lots of shopping options. Great deals can be had at the open-air markets at Chatuchak Park.

Food/Culinary Info:
Thai cuisine is pungent and spicy. Garlic, chilies, lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander are common spices. Galanga root, basil, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other ingredients popular in Thai food. Rice is eaten at most meals. Main dishes include hot and sour fish ragout, green and red curries, soups and noodle dishes. There is an incredible variety of fruit available, either fresh or juiced, at most markets. Street vendors selling grilled meats, and noodle shops serving cafeteria-style meals are other cheap local offerings.

Adventure:
Thai boxing, or Muay Thai is a violent, anything-goes spectacle. Pulling huge crowds, fights are held Rajdamneon and Lumpini Stadiums. It's a brutal sport: any part of the body is considered fair game. Punching and kicking is the least of a competitor's worries. If you are looking for a lot of adventure, try betting on a match- the stadiums positively buzz with the fervor of bettors watching fights. Another great (but grisly) show is *beep*. On Sundays you can find fights all over town, but Chatuchak Market has quite a bit of action.

Cultural Comments:
Lie back and enjoy the pleasures of a traditional Thai massage. Thai massage was held in such high regard at one time that King Rama III ordered that all knowledge on massage be inscribed in stone and placed in Wat Po. It is a great way to unwind after exploring the city. Ask your hotel or hostel for recommendations of a legitimate place.

Arts:
Thailand is rich with traditional music, theatre, and dance. Listen to a classical orchestra (called a piiphaat), which includes traditional instruments such as the pii and the khuli (flute-like instruments), the phin (a banjo), and the ranaat ek (a bamboo xylophone). The timing and melodies are very different from anything you'd hear from a Western orchestra. Or go to some traditional Thai theater (called khon, or masked drama). The Ramakian is the Thai version of the Ramayana, and the story is told through masks, music and dance.

Festivals/Events:
The Bangkok Film Festival held every September, has American, European, and Asian films.

Nightlife/Bars:
Bars and nightclubs can be found all around Bangkok. Some (such as those on Kao San Road) are almost exclusively for Western backpackers. For the most part, the night scene is mostly for men, be it at kaafeh (a coffeeshop-bar) where female hosts entertain men, or at the Pat Pong stripclubs/go-go bars where waitresses dance in neon-colored bikinis.

Cafe Quotient:
Cafe culture is so not Bangkok. In its place are noodle shops or internet cafes.

Gay & Lesbian:
Bangkok could be considered the gay capital of Asia, with many people visiting for a weekend of freedom and entertainment from more repressive countries. There are exclusively gay discos, as well as gay sex clubs, around the Patpong area.

Thai culture is very tolerant towards homosexuality and there are no anti-gay laws. No matter your orientation, it is wise to keep public displays of affection to a minimum.

Cost:
The baht is the unit of currency in Thailand. If you're traveling on a budget, you should be able to fairly easily get by on around US$25 a day anywhere in Thailand. Bargaining is expected in almost all situations except at department stores. Though it really isn't necessary, there are a lot of ways to save money in Thailand. Thai airways offers "Discover Thailand Fares" that provide you with four domestic flight coupons for a significant savings. There are also rail passes issued by the State Railway of Thailand available for 20 days of unlimited travel. Student IDs can often get you discounts at tourist sites.

Getting Around:
Bangkok is an engineering nightmare, and getting around the city is not easy. You've got two options: the tuk tuk, a small, three wheeled, propane propelled, buggy driven by a lunatic, or the taxi, a larger, four wheeled, occasionally air-conditioned, gas guzzling monster driven by a lunatic. Because Bangkok traffic is so bad, drivers get excited at the chance to put their feet on the gas. When vehicles aren't at a standstill, they are zooming around at amazing speeds. Walking, of course, is another option.

On a larger scale, Bangkok is very well connected. You can get just about anyplace from here. Trains and buses link the city to everywhere in Thailand and are very inexpensive by western standards. Planes are also an option, and fly to many tourist destinations like Phunket and Chiang Mai.

Safety:
Bangkok is a very safe city if you take all the usual precautions. Pickpockets can be a problem in crowded places or on buses. Touts, usually young boys who are paid to wrangle customer to a guesthouse, bar, or hotel, are part of Asian culture. Generally, they are harmless, often they are informative, but you should always be wary of what they are trying to get you to do. Less harmless are scams that involve free air-tickets and a new set of luggage from new friends you may have met in Bangkok. Drugs are serious business in Thailand. There have been at least three Hollywood movies detailing the trials of travelers who have been caught with drugs (both knowingly and unknowingly) in South East Asia. It is illegal to buy, sell or possess any drugs in Thailand. Be careful. There are extra-territorial laws in Australia, New Zealand, the USA and many EU countries meaning that offenders can be punished in their own country for overseas crimes, such as drug smuggling and child prostitution.

Language:
People in Bangkok speak Thai, and it is rare that anyone you'd meet on the street will speak English. However, at hotels, hostels, bars, and shops - anyplace you can spend Western currency - there is usually someone who can speak a bit of a Western language, be it English, German, French or Spanish.

Party/Social Scene:
There is certainly a social scene of sorts in Bangkok, though it is rare for locals and visitors to really mix. If you are a backpacker, it often revolves around the bars, clubs and cinemas on Kao San Road. The area around Silom Road also has many bars that are incredibly popular at weekends. There is always something going on someplace in the city, depending on your interests. It's common for visitors who aren't interested in prostitution to explore the red-light district of Pat Pong, or go dancing at *beep* bars. Other night-time activities include cabaret drag shows, live music at some of the nicer hotel lounges, and Thai classical dance at the National Theater.

Other Info:
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