Turkey: Ephesus

[bjorn]

Ephesus is a hotbed of history and architecture. The ruins are Turkey's best, both in size and in state of preservation. What makes Ephesus so interesting is that it is the remains of an entire ancient town. By exploring it, you get a sense of what life might have been like by walking the same streets ancient Greeks once lived on. You can discover the remnants of a library, a brothel, a government forum, a theatre, public toilets, and baths. Unlike other ruins, these are in good enough repair that you can imagine what the city must have once looked like.

You can't actually stay in Ephesus, but Selcuk, which is walking distance away from the ruins, is a small, friendly town to stay at in the area. Proximity to Ephesus isn't the only reason to stay though. The Basillica of Saint John, isa Bey Camii Mosque, Ephesus Museum and the remains of the Temple of Artemis (one of the seven wonders of the ancient world) are all in Selcuk.

When to go:
Summer is high season, but the weather other times of the year is so mild that anytime is enjoyable.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
Don't take a tour of the ruins at Ephesus; borrow a tour book from your hostel, or buy one at the site and wander through the 2000 acre site on your own. Outside of Ephesus are other minor attractions such as the House of the Virgin Mary and the Caves of the Seven Sleepers that you can visit on your way back to town. The ancient sites of Priene, Miletus and Didyma are connected to Selcuk by dolmus (mini-bus).

Museums:
The Ephesus Museum houses several famous artifacts including the statue of Bes and the bronze Boy on a Dolphin.

Shopping:
On Saturdays there is a huge open-air market where you can buy fruit, vegetables, and clothing. Basic shops that sell necessities and a few stores that cater to tourists round out the Selcuk shopping experience.

Natural Wonders:
From April till September, you might see storks around Selcuk. They nest in April, and can sometimes be seen around the Byzantine aquaduct or atop buildings.

Cultural Comments:
Selcuk has one hamman, open from about noon to midnight. It's not as beautiful or historic as some, but it does the trick and offers massages and bathing for about $6.

Festivals/Events:
Selcuk hosts the annual Camel Wrestling Festival the second week of January. At various times of the year, the Ephesus Festival is held at the Great Theatre. In June and July, some performances from the International Izmir festival are actually performed at Ephesus.

Nightlife/Bars:
Selcuk has a few bars, but the town is not a social center. Most people have a few drinks at their hostel or pension in the evening.

Cost:
During high season, prices can be as expensive as in Istanbul, but generally, they are slightly less. Hostel beds are around US$6-US$10 per night. Budget hotel rooms are more in the US$20 range. Cheap eats like Turkish pizza or kebabs cost US$1-US$3, and dinners can be had for under US$10.

Getting Around:
Buses are the best way to get anywhere. The bus station in the center of town has connections to all points in Turkey. Trains are less frequent, but also available. Dolmus can whisk you away to the ruins or to beaches along the coast.

Safety:
Selcuk and Ephesus are pretty safe. Just use common sense and be aware of your surroundings.

Language:
English is spoken at places that serve the tourist industry.

Party/Social Scene:
Selcuk has discos and bars, but the town is not really rocking. Most people stay for two days, alloting a day for Ephesus and a day for Selcuk. The area is pleasant enough that you might hang around for three, four or more days if you wanted to go to the beach, or surrounding towns.

Other Info:
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