Turkey: Istanbul

[bjorn]

Guidebooks write about how "Istanbul straddles Europe and Asia," but that's not the reason you should visit the city formerly known as Constantinople. The real reason is the sense of mystery and intrigue you feel when you arrive. Turkish pop music blares against the call of the muezzin. Carpet dealers bully and charm you into buying a rug as you wander down smoky alleyways to lavish palaces. Women in headscarves and long skirts, men in jeans and Billy Idol tee-shirts rush by as you lose your way in the invigorating chaos of a back street bazaar.

Istanbul is shrouded in history, layered in religion, and wrapped up in theatre. Muslim life blends seamlessly with the business of the street. Food vendors offer delicious samples of lokum, a young boy hawks electronics from Taiwan while a man stops and prays at a street-side mosque. Shopping is like swimming in an ocean of people - carpet sellers, shoeshine boys and salesmen from stores push at the tide of bodies wandering through the streets. Cars roar past, and the air is thick with the smells of spice, fish, and flowers - and the treasures of Turkey.

When to go:
Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. The climate is perfect and there are plenty of festivals to attend.

What to Do:
History/Ruins:
Topaki Palace, Aya Sofia, Blue Mosque, Hippodrome, Underground Cistern, and the student area of Beyazit are just some of the historically and socially important places to explore in Istanbul.

Museums:
The Carpet Museum, Mosaic Museum, Harbiye Military Museum and Yedikule Fortress Museum are on most people's lists to tour while in Istanbul.

Shopping:
The Kapalicarsi (Grand Bazaar) has 4,000 shops, and buyers are expected to bargain hard for any goods they may want. On Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday there are auctions for furniture, carpets and jewelry.

Food/Culinary Info:
Tea could easily be Turkey's national beverage. Served in dainty glasses, intensely brewed cay is available everywhere. Elma cay (apple tea) is equally popular. Extremely thick, strong kahve (Turkish coffee) is another popular drink. Beta, a syrupy, fermented drink of wheat berries, garnished with a dash of cinnamon and a handful of roasted chick-peas is sold by street vendors in the winter. Beta can also be found year-round at certain cafes or dessert shops. Meze, or appetizers, are similar to Spanish tapas in that they make a wonderful light meal and offer a smorgasbord of Turkish specialties.

Adventure:
For those looking for a little adventure, negotiating the purchase of a rug from one of Turkey's many carpet salesmen is about as exhilarating and thrilling for the buyer as a peewee league batter up against a major league pitcher.

Natural Wonders:
Cruising the Bosphorus, past mansions and palaces, is one of the most pleasant things to do on a hot, dusty day. Ferries leave every few minutes from Besiktas and Eminou, and you can stop at just about any port along the way for grilled fish and roasted nuts.

Cultural Comments:
The hamman, or turkish bath, is a tradition that every visitor should try. Many of the baths in Istanbul have been around since medieval times, and the architecture and d�cor is amazing. Religiously, culturally and socially important to Turkish society, the hamman is a good way to experience the local culture while enjoying a bit of luxury. What usually happens is you enter the bath wrapped in a towel, and then wash, or have someone wash you from the basins that line the walls. Afterward, you can get a massage from an attendant. First, you are exfoliated with an abrasive mitt, then given an enthusiastic massage. Finally, some hamans have saunas, where bathers hang out for awhile before returning to the changing room for a drink.

Festivals/Events:
April is filled with events. The Istanbul International Film Festival in early April, Children's Day and Independence Day on April 23, and the Tulip Festival in late April make it an ideal time to visit. Other festivals include the International Theatre Festival in late May, Faith Day (May 29), International Music Festival in late June, the Istanbul Arts Fair and the Yapi Kredi Art Festival (both in mid September), the Akbank International Jazz Festival (early October), and the anniversary of Ataturk's Death (November 10).

Nightlife/Bars:
Taksim Square is the place to go for discos and rock clubs. Jazz bars are popular, as are nightclubs, where you can have dinner and see a Turkish-themed show with belly dancing and the like. Night cruises along the Bosphorus are also a fun (and cheap) way to spend the evening.

Cafe Quotient:
Turkey has plenty of bohemian cafes and back alley tea shops where you can enjoy a cup of tea over a game of tavala (backgammon).

Gay & Lesbian:
Discretion is a good idea in Turkey. While there are a few gay nightclubs in Istanbul and around the resort areas, homosexuality is not socially accepted in Turkey.

Cost:
Turkey is by far the cheapest place in Europe to visit. Budget travelers can get by on US$20 by traveling slowly, staying at hostels and eating at food stalls or cheap restaurants. Spending slightly more will add a lot of luxury to your lifestyle in Turkey.

With the value of the Turkish lira in constant flux, it is best to change money every few days. Keep an eye on all the zeros on your bills - it's easy to mistake a 500,000 lira note for a 50,000 lira note.

Getting Around:
Istanbul has the world's oldest, and shortest, metro. The 1873 Tunel links Karakovy to Beyoglu. Other transport includes dolmus (local minibus taxis), the tramway, very well-connected bus services, trains, and ferries. Intercity buses run nearly non-stop, and Istanbul is linked to Asia and Europe by an extensive system of bus routes. Trains go to many of the same places, though not as frequently as the buses. Ferries run the length of the Bosphorus. Cheap and easy to use, it's also fun to take ferries in the evening as a sort of "sunset cruise" down to Bosphorus.

Safety:
Crime is an issue in Istanbul. Be careful with your belongings and be aware that tourists are occasionally the victims of scams. Also be careful crossing streets. Many people, including tourists, are killed daily in traffic accidents, especially in Istanbul.

All drugs (except alcohol) are illegal in Turkey. Buying, selling, or possessing drugs can lead to a prison sentence. Also, police do not look fondly on public drunkenness.

The PKK, or Kurdistan Workers' Party, has laid claims to an area in southeast Turkey. Responsible for a number of violent incidents, the rebel group announced in March of 1999 that its campaign to cripple the Turkish government includes targeting tourists. Think twice before traveling to southeast Turkey, and be aware of the current political situation while traveling.

Language:
Turkish is the main language. English, and sometimes German, is spoken at tourist sites and at hostels.

Party/Social Scene:
Culturally, Turkey is not the place to go for nightclubbing and raves, but heaps of Aussie and Kiwi travelers make the bars and clubs lively.

Other Info:
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